Building Your Own Dog Agility Seesaw: A Comprehensive Guide
Building a dog agility seesaw might sound daunting, but with a bit of DIY know-how and these instructions, you'll be constructing your own in no time! This guide provides a step-by-step process, incorporating helpful tips and addressing common questions along the way. Let's get started!
Part 1: Constructing the Seesaw Stands
This section details building the two identical stands that form the foundation of your seesaw.
Building the Stand Base
You'll need two identical sets of materials for each stand:
- Two 2x4s: One 40 inches (1 meter) long (horizontal base) and one 28 inches (70 cm) long (vertical upright).
- Wood glue: Waterproof exterior wood glue is recommended for durability.
- 3-inch wood screws: At least two per stand, more for extra strength.
- Clamps: To secure the pieces while the glue dries.
- Safety glasses: Essential for protecting your eyes.
Step-by-step instructions:
- Cut the wood: Use a saw (circular saw, jigsaw, or handsaw) to cut your 2x4s to the specified lengths. Remember safety glasses and secure the wood with clamps before cutting. Aim for clean, precise cuts.
- Mark the center: Lay the 40-inch base flat and mark the center point (20 inches or 50 cm).
- Assemble the "T": Position the 28-inch upright perpendicular to the base, centered at the marked point. It should resemble an upside-down "T" with the upright at the back.
- Glue and screw: Apply a generous amount of waterproof wood glue where the upright meets the base, ensuring both pieces are flush. Clamp them together firmly for a few hours to allow the glue to set. Pre-drill pilot holes before screwing in the 3-inch wood screws at a slight angle for maximum stability.
Adding Diagonal Supports
For added strength and stability, diagonal supports are crucial.
- Two more 2x4s: Approximately 30 inches (75 cm) long. Slight variations (26-32 inches or 66-81 cm) are acceptable, as long as they're identical.
- Mitre saw (or handsaw and protractor): To cut the 45-degree angles.
Step-by-step instructions:
- Cut at 45-degrees: Cut two 2x4s to the desired length. Use a mitre saw to achieve precise 45-degree angles on each end. A handsaw and protractor can be used, but requires careful measurement and accuracy.
- Glue and screw: Apply glue to the ends of the diagonal supports and attach them to both the upright and the base, one on each side of the upright. Pre-drill pilot holes and screw in securely, aiming for the center of each piece to prevent cracking.
Creating the Second Stand
Repeat the above steps to create an identical second stand. Ensure both stands are mirror images of each other for perfect seesaw balance.
Part 2: Connecting the Stands and Adding the Plank
This section explains how to connect the completed stands and attach the seesaw plank.
Connecting the Stands
You'll need:
- Two more 2x4s: Approximately 17 inches (43 cm) long.
- Clamps: To hold the connectors while cutting.
Step-by-step instructions:
- Cut and clamp: Cut the 2x4s to the desired length. Clamp them to ensure straight edges.
- Attach connectors: Position these connectors on either side of one upright, flush against both the upright and the base. Glue and screw them firmly into the upright.
- Repeat: Repeat the process on the other stand.
Attaching the Seesaw Plank
For the plank, you will need:
- One 2x12: Aim for 12 feet (3.7 meters) long. Consider purchasing a slightly longer piece (14 feet or 4.3 meters) to allow for trimming and prevent splitting. Avoid pressure-treated wood as it's too heavy.
- Three 3/4-inch pipe straps: To secure the pipe.
- 1-inch wood screws: For attaching the pipe straps.
- 1/2-inch galvanized pipe: Approximately 18 inches long.
Step-by-step instructions:
- Mark the midpoint: Find the midpoint of your plank.
- Mark the fulcrum point: Mark a point 2 inches (5 cm) towards one end. This will be your fulcrum point.
- Attach pipe straps: Attach the three pipe straps along your marked line using 1-inch wood screws. Ensure the pipe fits snugly but can still rotate freely.
Part 3: Final Touches and Height Adjustments
This final section covers the finishing touches, height adjustments, and safety considerations.
Height Adjustment and Finishing
You'll need:
- Drill: To create holes for the height adjustment.
Step-by-step instructions:
- Mark height adjustment points: Mark four points on each upright for height adjustment (standard heights: 8, 12, 18, and 24 inches or 20, 30, 46, and 61 cm from the ground).
- Drill holes: Drill a 1-inch hole through each mark.
- Thread the pipe: Thread the pipe through these holes and then through the pipe straps on the plank. A second person is helpful for this step.
Painting and Safety
- Exterior paint: Choose bright, contrasting colours for visibility and grip. Yellow or orange for the contact areas, and blue or green for the rest of the plank.
- Play sand: To improve grip on the wet paint.
Step-by-step instructions:
- Mark contact areas: Mark the contact areas on each end of the plank according to your dog agility association's regulations.
- Paint: Apply two coats of paint to the contact areas and the remainder of the plank, sprinkling play sand onto the wet paint to enhance grip. Allow to dry thoroughly before adding a final coat.
- Paint the base (optional): Paint the base for aesthetic purposes, ensuring it’s completely dry before reassembling the seesaw.
Conclusion
Building a dog agility seesaw is a rewarding project that provides hours of fun for you and your canine companion. Remember to prioritize safety, using proper tools and techniques, and following local building regulations. With careful planning and attention to detail, you’ll create a sturdy and safe seesaw that will enhance your dog's agility training for years to come. Happy building!