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DIY Well Pump: Build Your Own Water System!

Learn how to build a simple, reliable well pump with this step-by-step guide. Discover essential components, assembly instructions, and tips for success. Build your own water source today!

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Building Your Own Well Pump: A Step-by-Step Guide

This guide provides a detailed, step-by-step approach to constructing a simple yet effective well pump. While it requires some DIY skills and readily available materials, the satisfaction of drawing fresh water from your own well is unparalleled. Let's get started!

Building the Foot Valve Assembly: The Water's Gateway

The foot valve assembly is crucial; it acts as a one-way valve, allowing water into the pump cylinder while preventing backflow. Think of it as the gatekeeper for your water supply. You'll need the following materials:

  • 2-inch Cap: Seals the bottom of the assembly (essential, even if not shown in all diagrams).
  • 2-inch Pipe Screen (9 inches): Filters out grit and debris.
  • 2-inch Coupler: Connects pipe sections.
  • 2-inch to 3/4-inch Reducer: Reduces the pipe size.
  • Modified 2-inch to 3/4-inch Reducer: Carefully file down the lip to allow smooth 3/4-inch pipe insertion.
  • 2-inch Coupler: (A second one is needed).
  • 3/4-inch Pipe (4 inches): Short length of pipe.
  • 3/4-inch Slip-Male Thread Adapter: Connects pipe to the check valve.
  • 3/4-inch Brass Check Valve: The one-way valve; water flows upwards only.
  • 2-inch Pipe (36 inches): Forms the main body of the pump cylinder.

Crafting the Plunger Assembly: The Heart of the Pump

The plunger assembly is the powerhouse creating the suction. It also incorporates its own check valve. Gather these materials:

  • 3/4-inch Threaded Pipe Extender: Screws into the bottom of the check valve.
  • Spacers (Wood or Plastic): Maintain the gasket's position. Use a 2-inch hole saw and a 1-1/8-inch Forstner bit to create rings from scrap wood or plastic.
  • Leather or Rubber Gasket: Creates the suction seal. Wet the leather gasket thoroughly before insertion – a dry gasket is very difficult to install.
  • 3/4-inch Brass Check Valve: Your second check valve.
  • 3/4-inch Slip-Male Thread Adapter: For connecting parts.
  • 3/4-inch Pipe with Holes (6 inches): Drill several holes to allow water flow into the upper cylinder.
  • 3/4-inch to 1/2-inch Slip Reducer: Reduces the pipe size.
  • Rubber Stopper: Fits into the 1/2-inch pipe, preventing upward water flow.
  • 1/2-inch Pipe: The final piece of the plunger assembly.

Calculating Your Connecting Pipe: Reaching the Water Source

Determining the necessary pipe length depends on your well's depth. This pipe connects the cylinder to the pump head and plunger to the handle.

  • Static Water Level: This is critical. Lower a weighted string into the well until it hits water, marking the string at the well's top. The distance from the weight to the mark is your static water depth.
  • Total Depth: Helpful, but the static water level is more crucial for this pump design.
  • Pipe Length: Your cylinder should sit well below the static water level. Add extra length (e.g., 20 feet for a 15-foot requirement).
  • Pipe Size: 1 1/4-inch pipe saves money but requires more pumping effort.
  • Connections: Use threaded couplers, not glue, for easy assembly and disassembly. Drill a small drain hole a few feet below ground level to prevent freezing.

Assembling the Pump Head: Where the Water Emerges

The pump head is your water outlet. You will need:

  • 1 1/4-inch to 1/2-inch Reducer: Use a 7/8-inch Forstner bit to ream out the bore for a smooth fit.
  • 1 1/4-inch x 3/4-inch Threaded T-Coupler
  • 3/4-inch Slip-Male Thread Adapter
  • 3/4-inch Pipe
  • 3/4-inch 45° Elbow
  • 3/4-inch Pipe
  • 3/4-inch to 1/2-inch Slip-Male Thread Reducer (Optional):
  • Brass Female Pipe, Male Hose Adapter (Optional): For easier hose connection.
  • Gasket & Washers: Prevent leaks around the 1/2-inch pipe. Use a gasket, a washer, and a cut-down 3/4-inch to 1/2-inch reducer (cemented in place) for a secure seal.

Building the Handle & Lever Arm: Your Control Panel

Choose your handle type:

  • T-Handle: Simple and effective for shallower wells.
  • Lever Handle: Provides more leverage for deeper wells.
  • Modified Well Cap: Adapt your well cap to accommodate the pump head.

Protecting Your Investment: UV Protection for PVC

Protect exposed PVC pipe from UV damage by painting it with opaque paint.

Understanding the Pump's Mechanics

  • Upstroke: Pulling the handle draws water into the lower cylinder.
  • Downstroke: Pushing the handle forces water into the upper cylinder and out the pump head.
  • Repeat: This cycle continuously draws and discharges water.

Alternative Pump Operation: A Different Approach (Less Recommended)

An alternative design pushes water on the downstroke, but it presents several drawbacks:

  • Water in the Handle: Potential for water spraying from the handle.
  • Lever Handle Compatibility: Less suited to a lever handle.
  • Pipe Buckling: The 1/2-inch pipe might buckle under downward pressure.
  • Potential Leaks: The gasket seal may be less reliable.
  • Freeze Damage: More difficult to drain for winter protection.

Another Alternative Pipe Configuration (Less Recommended)

A more complex design using a separate pusher rod and supply pipe is less recommended due to increased complexity, material needs, and potential incompatibility with most wells.

Conclusion

Building a well pump is a rewarding project. Take your time, experiment, and enjoy the fresh, home-pumped water! Remember to prioritize safety and use appropriate protective gear throughout the process.